Nice Route!

This is a great article about the Dutch line on the NE Face of Thalay Sagar.

http://c498469.r69.cf2.rackcdn.com/2004/86_berkel_thalay_aaj2004.pdf#search=%22MELVIN%20REDEKER%22

What is so captivating about this amazing peak?

Thalay Sagar is one of the most captivating mountains not only in the in the Gangotri Group of peaks in the western Garhwal Himalaya, but in the world. Along with Cerro Torre, Masherbrum, Nuptse, Shivling, Kwangde, Trango, K6, Latok, Ama Dablam, Kantega, Cholatse etc etc Thalay Sagar is on my wish liste of mountains I really want to climb. It is the second highest peak on the south side of the Gangotri Glacier (after Kedarnath), but it is more notable for its spectacular and distinct features. Thalay Sagar will never attract any big crowds as there is no easy way to reach the summit at 6904 meters. The climbing is exposed and committing and climbing any route up this mountain would be a treasured prize for any alpinist.

Thalay Sagar was first climbed on June 24, 1979 via the northwest couloir and ridge, by an Anglo-American team comprising Roy Kligfield, John Thackray, and Pete Thexton.

Since the first ascent, many other routes have been climbed on the peak, all testpieces for modern alpinism. There have been at least 15 ascents by at least 9 different routes. The north face of the peak, in particular, has been climbed by 5 different routes, some more direct than others. The key difficulty in the direct routes is the notorious band of shale near the summit, which is rotten and lose rock. The first route to climb directly through the shale band, instead of finishing on one of the ridges, was the Australian Route done by Andrew Lindblade and Athol Whimp; and involves 1,400 m (4,600 ft) of climbing and is graded VII 5.9 WI5. Their climb was awarded the Piolet d'Or in 1999.

I will post more information about the different routes and expeditions on Thalay Sagar.